From garden to table

With the arrival of spring, we once again look to the land, to nature, in search of flavours and aromas that help us forget the winter, even if our bodies still crave a comforting stew now and then. All of these restaurants, which have strong ties to agriculture, are utterly tempting at this time of year.

Published in esMADRIDmagazine April 2025

EL INVERNADERO

Ponzano, 85. RÍOS ROSAS / CUATRO CAMINOS Tel. 628 93 93 67

Fresh produce is a cornerstone of Rodrigo de la Calle’s cuisine. The chef has a deep respect for seasonal ingredients, embracing their fleeting life cycles and letting them shape his culinary art. He has one main aim: getting the most out of each product

Haute cuisine defines this restaurant, which has earned an “ordinary” Michelin star as well as a Green Star recognising its commitment to sustainability. The names of its four tasting menus give us an idea of what to expect: Vegetalia, Vegetalia Experience, Gastrobotánica and Gastrobotánica Experience. As the dishes change with the seasons, it’s impossible to predict what will be on the menu when you book a table. Perhaps some steamed artichokes, salt-roasted purple sweet potatoes or baked onions. And take note: it may not be obvious, but El Invernadero isn’t a vegetarian restaurant—animal protein is used as a garnish.

EL HUERTO DE FLOREN DOMEZÁIN

Génova, 21. COLÓN / ALONSO MARTÍNEZ. Tel. 91 319 51 34 

It’s impossible to resist the cuisine of this chef from Navarre, who brings the finest ingredients straight from Tudela to craft dishes worthy of his title as Madrid’s very own “vegetable king”.

According to the charismatic Floren, who has been delighting Madrileños for over thirty years, albeit from another restaurant at first, the tomato is “the filet mignon of the garden”, so you’ve just got to try it!

Next, choose from an array of options: fried artichokes with foie gras; menestra (stewed vegetables), many believe it’s the best in Spain; borage, another green classic; white beans stewed in salt, perfect for comfort food lovers; diced battered hake with roasted delicate peppers; or rice, with vegetables, naturally. And for dessert? Try the unparalleled wild thyme sorbet at this one-of-a-kind spot in the heart of the Chamberí district.

CASA JULIÁN DE TOLOSA

Cava Baja, 18. LA LATINA. Tel. 91 365 82 10 

Mikel Gorrotxategi makes Basque food with select ingredients, from Tolosa kidney beans with collard greens—famous all over Madrid—to the iconic and delicious roasted piquillo peppers. Despite being a classic grill house where satisfying meat dishes take pride of place on the menu, it also has some truly exquisite vegetable offerings.

Tudela romaine hearts, grilled leeks with Roncal cheese, special Mendavia asparagus, and seasonal gazpacho are just some examples.

CASA FELISA

Beneficencia, 15. TRIBUNAL. Tel. 91 447 51 11

Spring is a time of year that particularly favours this modern take on a traditional restaurant, which celebrates seasonality with offerings that pay tribute to the well-stocked vegetable larder. Until mid-April, in addition to the regular dishes—grilled artichokes, chard in pepitoria sauce—, chef Antonio del Álamo prepares four off-menu options: sautéed broad beans with ham and quail egg, peas in carbonara sauce, green or white asparagus with Hollandaise sauce, and veil of pork jowl.

DESBORRE

Unión, 8. ÓPERA. Tel. 680 84 09 84

Cuisine reminiscent of times gone by, with a firm commitment to the land is what we get with Lucía Grávalos. She has created this space where we can eat well while also reflecting on the future of the planet, which is why her menu changes with and adapts to the seasons.

Specialities include stewed caparrones (a variety of kidney bean), carrot and parsnip millefeuille, and a cone of purrusalda (leek soup) with crunchy garlic. And how about finishing with a “chromatic green”? It’s a dessert made from vegetables with different textures.

EL QÜENCO DE PEPA

Henri Dunant, 21. CUZCO. Tel. 91 345 10 84

Dedication, simplicity and sensitivity are an integral part of this culinary mecca, where ingredients are carefully monitored at every stage of their journey. The expertise of chef Pepa Muñoz, who cultivates her own garden in the province of Ávila, and the very special setting complete the experience.

On the menu, you’ll find options like tomato with fresh spring onion, ratatouille topped with a breaded free-range egg, borage with black truffle, and battered chard stalks with olive oil cream, Ibérico ham and cardoon.

HUERTA DE CARABAÑA

Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 79 (El Corte Inglés). NUEVOS MINISTERIOS. Tel. 667 68 41 50

The menu at this restaurant offers a gourmet experience for lovers of the finest produce, which is grown in its own garden in the Madrid town of Carabaña. Options include peas, sea bass with grilled asparagus and sole served with a vegetable “skin”. Everything is so tasty!

PABÚ

Panamá, 4. CUZCO. Tel. 91 104 86 05

Coco Montes looks to the countryside for inspiration at this restaurant that serves micro-seasonal food, with dishes like pickled artichokes and pistachio, tender Sanlúcar asparagus with shallots and fresh garlic shoots, teardrop peas, and Galician sea urchins.

CASA MORTERO

Zorrilla, 9. SEVILLA. Tel. 91 059 55 70

This restaurant takes great pride in the belief that beauty lies in simplicity, offering traditional dishes that speak for themselves. You can’t go wrong with the Tolosa kidney beans stewed over a charcoal fire, bell pepper salad with cod, or pickled poularde on a bed of lettuce hearts and walnuts.