Restaurants in markets

If you’re paying attention, you might hear: “¿quién da la vez?” (who’s last in line?), or maybe: “un vino, por favor” (a wine, please). Buying fruit and vegetables in the market is an everyday practice, as is meeting for lunch or dinner at one of the many restaurants found next to traditional market stalls. This gastro trend is all the rage right now in Madrid.

Published in esMADRIDmagazine January 2025

Scattered across Madrid’s 21 districts are 45 municipal markets, each offering residents the finest local food products every day. Next to these traditional stalls, sharing space in the same markets, it’s now common to find bars and restaurants with diverse menus. Some have very few tables, and nearly all require you to make a reservation in advance because they’re just so popular. Traditional Spanish, Oriental, Latin American... a whole world of flavours awaits!

Dining at these spaces has become a growing trend, especially since San Miguel Market reopened in 2009 after extensive remodelling, transforming it into a gourmet mecca for foodies. However, its story dates back much further—it first opened in 1916 as a food market. The structure still maintains its original framework, making it a prime example of the city’s cast-iron architecture. On this itinerary, we’re seeking excellence as well as originality. First, let’s fill our shopping baskets, then we can sit down to eat. So, what are we waiting for?

KRUDO

No. 36 Calle de Vallehermoso, 36. Vallehermoso Market. QUEVEDO / CANAL

“Raw... and with fire!” is the motto of Venezuelan chef Rafael Bérgamo, who opened this gourmet raw bar just a few months ago in one of the busiest markets in the Chamberí district. This new project follows his success with Kuoco 360º Food, one of Madrid’s best fusion restaurants, and Hot Now, known for serving one of Spain’s most acclaimed pizzas. Here, the focus is on quality ingredients and the care with which they’re prepared—both lovingly and skilfully.

The raw bar is a joint venture with fellow Venezuelan Andrés Correa, with the wine list curated by Polish sommelier Paula Prokopiak. Its menu features ceviches and thin tiradito slices alongside the enchupetada croquette (made with red prawn tartare, Japanese mayo and huacatay mint), oysters served on ice with a wedge of lemon, and tuna tartlets. If you like grilled food, there’s an unbeatable octopus served with Thai pesto and chimichurri sauce. Dessert lovers will want to save room for the tempting “sweet treats”.

EL TRIPERITO

No. 28B Calle de Ayala. La Paz Market. SERRANO

If you’re looking for an unforgettable meal, look no further than this restaurant, which has yet to celebrate its first anniversary. Located in a charming market in Barrio de Salamanca, head to the back and enjoy Peruvian street food with an Asian and Spanish twist.

Second chapters can be just as great, and that’s a point of pride with chef Roberto Martínez Foronda, who also runs the excellent Tripea in Vallehermoso Market. If you’re lucky, you might find him cooking up a storm in the kitchen, which turns out fantastic Chifa cuisine that diners go crazy for.

Specialities include wonton stuffed with char siu (Chinese roast duck) and topped with carbonara made with fresh pancetta and cream. Or perhaps you’d prefer to try the warm ceviche with wok-fried mussels or the Northern-style fried rice with lagarto ibérico pork? For dessert, don’t miss the passion fruit cheesecake.

PURY

No. 2 Calle de Ricardo León. Los Mostenses Market. PLAZA DE ESPAÑA

A stone’s throw away from Gran Vía avenue and the increasingly vibrant Plaza de España, in a market dominated by Latin American flavours, this Korean eatery that opened last summer has quickly become a sensation. Chef Jinwon Yoon has returned to Madrid with this new venture, whose name translates from Korean as “root”. The star dish is the pork knuckle, chopped into pieces and stir-fried in hot sauce over a high flame. However, it faces stiff competition from the pork boiled in a broth made with doenjang (soybean paste), garlic, onion, leek and ginger, served with fresh kimchi.

BISTRÓ BARCELÓ

No. 6 Calle de Barceló. Barceló Market. TRIBUNAL

Blood pudding and onion jiaozi dumplings with red pepper chutney, scallops in seafood béchamel sauce, sea bass and orange couscous, cheesecake infused with honey and thyme... The tasting menu at this unique bistro is the result of many years of passion for cooking.

Jesús García Almarcha has created a space with unbeatable food and drinks. The offerings have a French flair, which is only natural since he trained at Le Cordon Bleu, but there are nods to other global cuisines. It’s an oasis of calm, yet it retains all the ambience of the vibrant market in which it’s located.

PRRIMITAL

Plaza de San Miguel. San Miguel Market. SOL / ÓPERA

“Keep the flame burning!” No phrase better captures the essence of this casual street meat establishment in Madrid’s gourmet mecca. According to legend, “prr” was the first word humans used to describe fire. Over the grill, the chefs work their magic, preparing a fantastic fresh picanha steak and a boneless Tomahawk that are sure to delight meat lovers. The menu also includes stewed tripe, hot dogs, and hamburgers on brioche buns which have become a true classic.

INSURGENTE

No. 10 Calle de Alonso Cano. Mercado de Chamberí. IGLESIA / ALONSO CANO

So, what’s on offer here? A unique, diverse culinary experience with authentic flavours, set in a friendly atmosphere that blends market vibes with Latin American culture—in other words, a culinary revolution!

This little place certainly leaves a lasting impression. Opened in April 2024 by Genaro Celia from Colombia and Agustín Ezequiel Mikielievich from Argentina, they claim to make the best bao buns in all of Madrid. Their Mexican stewed meat and San Simón cheese pasties, served with a tamarillo and basil chimi dip, are absolutely out of this world.

LA TABERNA DE LA ANCHA

No. 24 Calle de Augusto Figueroa. San Antón Market. CHUECA / BANCO DE ESPAÑA / GRAN VÍA

This establishment is a pared-down version of a Madrid classic: the restaurant La Ancha. Here, they offer beer on tap and servings of different potato omelettes, accompanied by a wide range of “extras”. What would you prefer with yours? There’s tripe, vinegar-marinated anchovies, garlic prawns, crab salad and more. Everything is so yummy!

BARRA CRUDA

No. 8 Calle de Ibiza. Mercado de Ibiza. IBIZA

People flock to this place to experience culinary innovation, featuring exceptional techniques like tataki and ceviche. The menu offers a selection of raw and semi-raw dishes, each with no more than four preparation steps, all made with top-quality ingredients.

DOPPELGÄNGER

No. 5 Calle de Santa Isabel. Antón Martín Market. ANTÓN MARTÍN

Chef Samy Ali Rando left the Michelin-starred La Candela Restò to open this bar, as he likes to call it, and “cook whatever he wants, exactly how he wants”. This translates into irresistible snacks like the Mystical Suquet broth and Morocco Pie, and can’t-miss sweets like the Desert Doughnut.