Known the world over for its crowded, transient flea market that's held on Sundays and public holidays and offers a diverse range of goods, El Rastro is a bustling shopping area in the city centre that’s open every day of the week and stands out for its jumble of specialist shops, typical bars, historic sites and interesting places like the Museum of Popular Art.
The long, steep street Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores has multiple shops specialising mainly in mountain sports –new and second-hand sportswear by top brands at Makalu, Barrabes, OS20, El Rincón de la Montaña, etc.–, handcrafted furniture, photography –Fotocasión is one of the city's top establishments– and antiques –set around two courtyards with carefully designed architecture, one on either side of the street (Piquer Galleries and Nuevas Galerías), are multiple antiques dealers and restaurants– but you’ll also find bookshops, scraps of fabric, hardware shops and pet supplies for sale.
Scattered amongst the many shops, there’s no shortage of typical bars where you can have a wine, beer or vermouth on tap with some paella tapas or a calamari sandwich, as well as traditional restaurants where you can enjoy a nice cocido (chickpea stew) or some tripe.
The Museum of Popular Art and Traditions, an interesting museum that houses ethnographic pieces from all over Spain, is also worth visiting. In addition, Saturdays at El Rastro, Madrid’s oldest, most traditional and most iconic leisure fair, is held on the first and third Saturday of each month (in Plaza del General Vara del Rey) and features the best antiques, vintage pieces, auction houses, collectors’ items, gastronomy and entertainment.
The popular flea market held on Sundays and public holidays
The image of El Rastro that immediately comes to mind is that of its crowded, transient flea market which is held on Sundays and public holidays. Documents mention the market as early as 1740. Originally a hub for the sale, exchange and general wheeling and dealing of second-hand clothes, it offered an alternative to street peddling. Its curious name (The Trail) may owe itself to the fact that the market was held near a former slaughterhouse and the dead, unskinned livestock transported to it would leave a trail on the ground. In the 16th century, the word “Rastro” was also used as a synonym for butcher's shop or abattoir.
Today, the market hosts over 1000 merchants who start to sell their goods at about 9am and pack up at roughly 3pm. Located in the vicinity of Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores, the market has its hub in Plaza de Cascorro and occupies a large, almost triangular block delimited by the streets Calle de Toledo, Calle de Embajadores and Ronda de Toledo. It also sprawls down other streets, such as Calle de San Cayetano, Calle de Fray Ceferino González, Calle de Carlos Arniches and Calle de Mira el Río, and into squares like Plaza de General Vara del Rey and Plaza de Campillo del Mundo Nuevo.
Depending on which section you pass through, you’ll find different items ranging from artisanal goods, clothing and accessories to kitchenware, trading cards, second-hand albums and magazines, pets and all sorts of objects of varying ages.
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