A stone’s throw from El Retiro Park

Welcome to one of Madrileños’ most beloved hangouts. The park that’s witnessed a thousand and one stories, an unmissable spot for those who want to get to know the real Madrid. The best cuisine, traditional and trailblazing, homely but adventurous. Take a stroll... and then tuck in!

The Landscape of Light, now declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, wouldn’t be what it is without the light that shines so spectacularly through a park that belongs to everyone. Built in the first half of the 17th century, this former royal estate, then with its own palace, was created by the Count-Duke of Olivares for Philip IV to enjoy. It was not until 1767 under Charles III, that it first opened to the public. Since then, it has been the city’s most emblematic meeting point, with every Madrileño having their own version of El Retiro, because everything happens and has happened here, around the pond and its numerous sculptures. In the immediate vicinity, between streets and boulevards, there have always been casual tascas and taverns in which to while away the hours with a glass of wine and a chat. Today, these traditional haunts coexist with restaurants that promise that after a delightful stroll, you’ll need look no further than this neighbourhood, which has become quite the culinary pioneer, for a drink or a bite to eat. Here are just some of your options.

Published in esMADRIDmagazine in October 2023

LA COCINA DE FRENTE

Ibiza, 40. IBIZA. Tel. 91 060 72 20

Homemade cuisine with a modern twist. Check out the mouth-watering fare, they’ve got Manchego ratatouille, veal shank, pickled quail, Andalusian-style anchovies, cod-stuffed peppers and pan-fried scalloped potatoes with garlic and parsley. Time and taste are the order of the day with these dishes that warm us from within. La Cocina de Frente is an upmarket bistro, a gastronomic space with soul. The brainchild of Juanjo López, it’s a place that journeys through the classic recipe book and adds weekly specials according to what’s in season. Their mission: to transform simplicity into something simply extraordinary. If there’s one dish with which they give it their all, it’s got to be the cocido chickpea stew. It’s prepared with great care every month by guest chefs who are announced in advance on the website calendar so that no one misses out. Bon appétit!

BISTRONÓMIKA

Ibiza, 44. IBIZA. Tel. 91 060 72 40

Here you’ll find bluefin tuna, oysters, red prawns and anchovies. But also, scorpionfish, comber, red snapper, black seabream, gilt-head bream, painted comber and ballan wrasse. In a nutshell, all the great classics and other outstanding species. The sea is an immense, deep space that’s full of treasures, and this restaurant is devoted entirely to it, hook, line and sinker. Grilled fish and seafood, fish stews and delicious surf and turf combos make up its “Non-Menu”, which depends entirely and exclusively on the seasonal products that are available. You won’t miss them displayed on the counter that presides over the brightly lit room, where oak wood has a starring role. You’ve got a table, now there’s only one thing to do: ask questions and let them surprise you. Carlos del Portillo always nails it.

BERLANGA

Avda. Menéndez Pelayo, 41. IBIZA. Tel. 91 391 68 86

Epic rice dishes. That’s what you’ll get in this restaurant run by José Luis García-Berlanga, son of the legendary filmmaker. There are plenty of options to choose from: a banda-style; with snow peas and foie; with lean Iberian pork fillet, mini pork and green pepper bombitas; del Senyoret-style with prawns, cuttlefish, dogfish and red mullet…the list goes on. It also offers other incredible dishes—veal cheeks, steak tartare, battered hake fillet—and a great selection of tapas.

HOTARU MADRID

Alcalá, 99. RETIRO. Tel. 91 117 17 99

Headed by chef Alejandro Pérez, Hotaru’s gastronomic offering stands out for its exquisite fusion of Japanese flavours and ingredients from other corners of the world. A luxurious space where harmony, precision and technique are celebrated in each dish. Sushi lovers, this is the place for you! Although the menu includes everything from smooth Malaga clams to amberjack temakis and quail egg nigiris.

TABERNA & MEDIA

Lope de Rueda, 30. RETIRO / IBIZA. Tel. 91 867 58 42

Much more than a tavern. This is a labour of love by José Luis and Sergio Martínez to revive traditional tapas with contemporary recipes in sophisticated surroundings. Two spaces—bar and dining room—one concept: top quality ingredients prepared for sharing. Highlights include the Russian salad, Madrid-style tripe omelette and Alejandro’s creamy patatas bravas.

CADAQUÉS

Jorge Juan, 35. PRÍNCIPE DE VERGARA. Tel. 91 360 90 53

In a modern atmosphere, which captures the essence of Mediterranean fishing villages and the sound of Cadaqués Bay on the coast of Girona, this restaurant is committed to serving up traditional dishes in an innovative format. Check out the fish stew, red prawns and rice casserole with lobster, among others. Savour leisurely cuisine accompanied by the occasional guilty pleasure, like the caramelised crema catalana.

KULTO

Ibiza, 4. IBIZA. Tel. 91 173 30 53

Standing or seated, using cutlery or your hands, here, it’s all about enjoying a relaxed setting. The cuisine is eclectic, something you’ll only fully understand when you’ve tried it. Among its dishes we’ll find Vietnamese-style shrimp wraps, crispy pig’s ears with spicy brava and habanero chili sauce, and sticky toasted chickpea socarrat with baby squid and ali-oli. KultO is where Madrid meets, greets and eats with the world.

ARZÁBAL RETIRO

Avda. Menéndez Pelayo, 13. IBIZA. Tel. 91 409 56 61

A unique place to unwind after work, meet friends or simply have lunch or dinner for a special occasion. This is a bona fide temple of traditional cuisine with all the essence of our local tapas bars. Order a glass of wine and…bring it all on! From gildas (pepper, olive and anchovy skewers) and Russian salad with smoked sardines to black butter skate, oxtail and fried free-range eggs with truffle.

LA RAQUETISTA

Doctor Castelo, 19. IBIZA. Tel. 91 831 18 42

The name of this restaurant pays tribute to the Basque pelota players in Javier Aparicio’s maternal family. The chef brings us a gastronomic offering that’s based on tradition, but that’s also travelled, just as his ancestors did, with their basket and the racket in tow. This brave, wandering spirit translates into dishes like Scottish red partridge rice, Massaman curried oxtail and Manchego ratatouille with smoked sturgeon.