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OUT FOR tapas

One of Madrid's most long-established traditions is going out for tapas. There are time-honoured and modern taverns, traditional venues and trendy restaurants, but all coincide in one thing: they serve small delicatessen bites that go down perfectly with a glass of wine and excellent conversations.

In the centre of Madrid, the streets are dotted with establishments that have been operative for over a century. Some are patisseries, others are chemists, but most are taverns that seem to have blended into the environment. They are still run traditionally, using methods that have allowed them to survive over several generations without altering their aspect. Walking into these taverns is like stepping one hundred years back in time. Most still have red façades, a trend that started in the 19^th century to set them apart from other venues, and a decoration based on tiles with drawings. Inside, cold marble tables, wooden benches, zinc bars and an intense aroma of wine, mainly from Valdepeñas, stand the test of time.

A little bit of history

Historical records reveal taverns were a flourishing business already in the Middle Ages. The establishments were preferred by the lower classes, who got together to chat over a glass of wine which was served in jugs that came covered with a slice of bread to avoid spilling the liquid they contained. That custom may have originated the ‘tapas' (covers), referring to the portion of food that is always served with a drink.

These taverns, located in the oldest part of the capital -Cava Baja, Cava Alta, Cava de San Miguel, Puerta de Sol or La Latina- have been host to meetings of intellectuals, politicians, writers and commoners avid for a good debate over a tasty meal. They are now an absolute reference point for Madrid's gastronomy that no one, local or tourist, should miss.

From Huertas to La Latina

Nostalgic itineraries should definitely call in at Casa Alberto(Huertas, 18), in the Literary Quarter, founded in 1827. The onyx and wood bar serves traditional Madrid specialities, like tripe, meat balls and ox tail, which is also a favourite at the nearby Taberna de Antonio Sánchez (Mesón de Paredes, 13), a venue that has been closely connected to the bullfighting world since its inauguration in the late 19^th century.

The most traditional establishments are always packed before lunch. The most recommendable are Casa Labra (Tetuán, 12), ideal for croquettes and cod by Puerta del Sol, and Casa Paco (Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, 11), just past the Plaza Mayor, where they serve Valdepeñas chatos, little glasses of wine. At night, it's the best place to start off on a route around La Latina, including venues like La Chata (Cava Baja, 24), with its ceramic tile façade, and Casa Lucio (Cava Baja, 35), where celebs from all over the world -from Tom Cruise to Bill Clinton- have ordered their famous fried eggs. There are also more modern venues. Casa Lucas (Cava Baja, 30) has an almost cult-like status and specialises in contemporary micro-cuisine, and La Camarilla (Cava Baja, 21), prepares tapas as mouth-watering as cod and pepper snacks with stewed onions, or scallop and king prawn chunks... The gastronomic itinerary around the area should continue towards Taberna El Almendro  (Almendro, 13), where the blood pudding rolls are a genuine institution.

Chueca, Malasaña and Salamanca quarters

In the lively Chueca neighbourhood, our favourite is Baco y Beto (Pelayo, 24) with their delicious home-made croquettes. In Malasaña don't miss La Ardosa (Colón, 13), where they serve drought beer and vermouth -they posses a diploma honouring them as the Best Pilsen Beer Bar in Spain, awarded by the Czech master beer brewers-, always accompanied by their famous Spanish omelette.

Master chefs have also dabbled in the art of designing tapas. Alberto Cuesta has created the menu at Sula (Jorge Juan, 33), a very cosmopolitan restaurant-bar, designed totally in black, in the Salamanca district. Behind the bar, the tapas are prepared as they are ordered: grilled Iberian fillet steak, thick tomato purée with quail eggs... Although the star is definitely the Joselito Grand Reserve Ham -from Guijuelo (Salamanca)-, which many specialists consider the best gastronomic product in Spain. At Sula they serve it with oil and tomato on glass bread. Juan Pablo de Felipe is in charge of the kitchen in El Chaflán, and has recently opened Aris Bar (Avda. Pío XII, 34) where tradition (fried aubergine, squid in lemon sauce) is combined with innovation (raw octopus marinated in passion fruit foam).