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Flamenco in Madrid

History and tradition coexist in tablaos and clubs in Madrid, the genuine flamenco capital of the world

Voices filled with anguish and pain in cante jondo. Rhythms of happiness and joy in sevillanas and rumbas. Flamenco is all that and so much more, always loaded with passion and intensity. These qualities confer this genre with an expressiveness that moves all viewers. Regardless of where they're from. Regardless of whether they understand the language. This art makes feelings flourish. Who hasn't felt moved by a dancer stamping her feet, or by a flamenco singer belting out a passionate cry?

Madrid is the capital of flamenco. That statement may seem a bit categorical, but this city is the place to be for anyone who wants to succeed in one of the flamenco styles. Any day of the week, the city offers a wide range of shows, anything from grand performances in the city's theatres to small song and dance recitals in tablaos or venues. Furthermore, Madrid is the hub of the record industry which has presented flamenco to the world, and the departure point for artists who travel around the country, dazzling the audience.

With the rise of flamenco bars in the 19^th century, flamenco enjoyed its finest hour in the capital. These days, the flamenco bars and clubs are carrying on the tradition, offering a chance to see flamenco at its purest every night, while enjoying a fine meal or a drink.

Our journey begins in the most traditional flamenco tapas bars in Madrid. El Rincón de Jerez is located in the Salamanca neighbourhood and is one of the establishments with the most authentic atmosphere. At 11 o'clock every night, the waiters and the audience sing “la salve”, a tradition which “comes directly from Jerez”, according to the venue manager Rafael Cantero. “The lights go down, and candles are lit in order to get the singers in the mood, and the audience is given a song sheet so that they can join in”.

Not only can the audience enjoy the finest local music, but they can also enjoy traditional tapas and dishes like gazpacho, potatoes, fried fish and oxtail, and wines such as sherry and manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Tablaos: A fine meal and the very best dancing

After an aperitif and a few drinks during the afternoon, we head off to enjoy a delicious meal in front of some of the most historic of Madrid’s flamenco stages, tablaos. While we enjoy a wine accompanied by some of the more traditional Spanish dishes, the most prestigious artists of the flamenco world demonstrate their art.

Corral de la Morería is one of the oldest and most famous of the capital’s flamenco bars. Open since 1956, this tablao offers the very best in flamenco, courtesy of its own group of dancers, guitarists and singers in addition to established artists of the scene. Their gastronomic offer is currently mentioned in the prestigious Michelin Guide.

Over the course of its almost 50 years of existence, a whole host of celebrities have visited this flamenco bar. From the great American actors and actresses of the first half of the 20th century, such as Gary Cooper, Rita Hayworth and Charlton Heston to politicians such as George Bush, Richard Nixon, John F. Kennedy, Henry Kissinger and Carlos Menem and great artists such as Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí. Many are the Hollywood stars who have recently spent an evening here enjoying the art of flamenco, including Nicole Kidman, Adam Brody, Natalie Portman and Richard Gere.

The Café de Chinitas is located nearby, and is renowned in the capital for the original decoration of its stage with manila shawls. Located in the basements of an 18th century palace, close to the Plaza de Oriente, this venue has offered the finest flamenco and national and international gastronomy since its opening in 1970.

Also known for its bullfighting ambience, artists of the calibre of La Chunga, María Albaicín, Lola Flores, Pastora Imperio, El Lebrijano and Manzanita have all performed on its stage. In addition to these great artists, the venue also has its own flamenco group who perform every night at 10.30pm.

 Without leaving the area, our next stop is Las Carboneras. Opened a few years ago under the guidance of three friends -Manuela Vega, Ana Romero and La Tacha - with the idea of recovering the traditional flamenco atmosphere, it has made a name for itself as an innovative venue, a breath of fresh air on the flamenco scene. The avant garde decoration is testimony to this, in combination with the pure flamenco dancing on offer.

Although still in its infancy, artists of the calibre of Montse Cortés, Manuel Reyes, Rocío Molina, Alejandro Granados and Belén Fernández have all performed on its stage. Its own group, composed of four dancers, two singers and two guitarists, perform from Monday to Saturday. According to Manuela Vega, the show is based on “the most traditional flamenco, but with plenty of room for improvisation”. 

Casa Patas is an equally innovative venue, and has offered one of the most attractive flamenco shows in the capital on a daily basis for over 20 years. According one of the managers, “Unlike other venues that have a regular group, at Casa Patas we have a different programme on offer each month. The programme also varies from week to week and the weekends are also different.

The performers are among the most famous in the flamenco world, such as El Negri’, singer of La Barbería del Sur and Lole Montoya. With regards to the dancers, there are artists such as Marcos Flores and Olga Penicet, Mara Martínez and Rafael Matos.

In addition to these flamenco bars, the capital also has other venues offering the finest flamenco performances. El Corral de la Pacheca, Torres Bermejas, Arco de Cuchilleros o Las Tablas are all worthy of note.

Flamenco until the early hours

For those who wish to carry on until the early hours of the morning, the Calle Echagaray is an ideal place to go. Cardamomo is one of the finest venues in this area, famous for its live performances and record launches.

Artists such as Diego el Cigala, Raimundo Amador,  Ramón el Portugués and Ketama have all performed on its stage. The performances themselves notwithstanding, it is not uncommon to see the audience clapping and accompanying the artists, dancing to purest flamenco rhythms until the early hours of the morning. It opens every day except Monday, from 9pm to 3.30am.

The bar Clan can be found close to Cardamomo, near calle Ribera de Curtidores and the Madrid Flea Market. Decorated in an Arabic style reminiscent of the Alhambra, it is an ideal place to enjoy a quiet meal at the weekends, or a drink and a live performance by some of the most renowned artists on the flamenco scene. Among the artists who have performed on its stage, it is worth highlighting Elena Andújar, Angélica ‘La Tremendita’ and Leo Treviño.

For those who wish to dance until the sun comes up, there are two more bars with a distinct flamenco atmosphere: Al Andalus and Ole con Ole (formerly known as the sala Axarquía on calle Calatrava, 32). They offer live flamenco performances as well as spacious dance floors, where the more courageous can flaunt their abilities to the tune of sevillanas,  zapateaos or rumbas.

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